An Ascent of Pequena Alpamayo

Today was the first serious outing .... a long haul to the pyramidal summit of Pequena Alpamayo. However, it was a 40 minute walk along a stony path to reach the ice before the tough walking started. Not too bad a nights sleep, but I was still tired as we left camp. (photo: First light as we make steady progress up the snow slopes)
So, at 0500, we were on our way in the dark. Walking on rocky paths is not very good in mountaineering boots, however it wasn't an option to start with two sets of boots. On reaching the ice, it was on crampons and out iceaxe, and off up the glacier. Not particularly steep at the start, but very uneven ice where it had melted and refroze. The un-nerving thing was the constant creaking noise of the ice as we gained height. (photo: Looking back along the snow ridge we had just walked over)
The ice changed to frozen snow and the slopes became steeper, requiring rest-stops to recover the breathing. It wasn't particularly cold, and fortunately no wind, and as the sun rose it became very pleasant ....... but tiring. (photo: First view of Pequena Alpamayo - the route we take is up the steep ridge at the top of the shadow area)
After crossing a couple of crevices, and over a couple of steep snow ridges, we reached a point with great views of our goal. We also reached a point that we could have done without - a 130ft scramble down some rocks. Not easy in crampons .... but there was no alternative route. Once at the bottom and back on compact snow, it was more hard work ahead. (photo: Looking back to the rocky bump - centre leading down to a col - that we had to scramble down)
We had a couple of snow ridges to pass over before we reached the final section ...... two tiered steep ascent up to the narrow ridge summit. This was tough going, particularly with tired legs and not enough oxygen to feed the demanding lungs. (photo: Paul taking a photo ... with me posing on the narrow ridge summit)
Well, after much panting and cursing - and words such as ' what the hell am I doing here!' we reached the ridge summit. Brilliant feeling .... at last ...... and fantastic views. Not alone, though. A couple had reached the summit just before us having climbed up the vertical drop to the right of our route. We had noticed the black specks on the ice as we scrambled down the rocks earlier. There was also another couple at the end of the ridge. (photo: And my other side ...... with the Condirri range behind me)
So, once anchored down to an ice bolt, it was time for a snack, water and photos, and wait for the rest of the team to arrive. (photo: A guide leads another group to the summit)
As the cold started to affect us, we prepared for the long journey back to camp. Once we were roped up again, I led the way down the steep ridge back to the scramble section. (photo: Looking back up to the summit as others make slow progress down)
Still hard work going down, in fact worse than the up-hill. It was more difficult getting sound footing with the crampons on the steep downhill section, and although roped-up I still didn't like the look of where I could slide to! (photo: A final view of Pequena Alpamayo before we start the return scramble - 2 people can be seen midway descending from the summit)
Once over the scramble section, it was a long haul back down the compact snow to the solid ice. It was with some relief when we reached the end of the glacier, however we still had another 40 or so minutes walking off the ice. It was 1430 as we arrived back at our tents - and I was completely exhausted. Long day, and by 1830 we had eaten and was tucked up in our sleeping bags for the night. (photo: Approaching Base Camp ..... give me that sleeping bag!)